Elise Wu
Power and Clothing: Exploring the Role of Fashion in Colonization and Resistance
Many people believe that fashion is purely a matter of personal taste and expression, but this fails to recognize the ways in which clothing is shaped by political, economic, and social factors. In this learning module, you will develop a critical understanding of the role of clothing in colonization and power structures. The module will explore how clothing has been used as a tool for colonization; the impact of colonization on traditional dress; and the ways in which power structures continue to shape the fashion industry today.
The module will introduce learners to the history and cultural significance of clothing in different parts of the world and will showcase how clothing has been used to assert power and control over indigenous peoples and other marginalized groups. It also provides learners with the skills and tools they need to engage in critical analysis of the fashion industry. This includes the ability to analyze the cultural and historical significance of clothing, evaluate the impact of power structures on the industry, and propose solutions for promoting more ethical and sustainable fashion practices. By the end of the module, learners will be able to critically evaluate fashion trends and styles and understand the broader social and cultural implications of their fashion choices.
Join this journey to explore the coloniality of clothing, understand power dynamics, and reclaim identities! Challenge your perspectives, expand your knowledge, and be empowered to contribute to a more inclusive and equitable fashion world.
This module is designed for undergraduate students studying fashion, cultural studies, anthropology, sociology, history, and related fields, who are interested in gaining a deeper understanding of the cultural and historical significance of clothing and the ways in which power dynamics have shaped the fashion industry. The module is also available for educators and researchers to incorporate these topics into their curriculum or research.
Structure
This module is flexible and self-paced, allowing you to tailor your learning journey to fit your schedule and interests. You can expect to spend approximately 4–6 hours on the module overall, but the duration can vary based on your engagement level and desire to explore additional resources. Whether you prefer to dedicate a day or spread it out over a few weeks, the choice is yours: engage with the learning materials in a way that best suits your learning style and interests.
After completing this module, you will be able to:
Explain the historical and cultural significance of clothing as a tool for colonization and the exercise of power dynamics;
Analyze the impact of colonization on traditional clothing and fashion practices in different regions of the world;
Critically evaluate the ways in which power dynamics shape the fashion industry, including issues related to labor exploitation, environmental degradation, and cultural appropriation;
Apply key anthropological, sociological, and cultural studies concepts to analyze the role of clothing in promoting or challenging power dynamics;
Propose solutions for promoting more ethical and sustainable fashion practices, including strategies for promoting cultural diversity, protecting workers' rights, and reducing environmental harm;
Critically evaluate the role of fashion activism and the potential of social media to drive change in the industry; and
Analyze the role of clothing in shaping identities and subcultures and understand the importance of respecting and valuing different cultural expressions.
Elise Wu is a third-year student majoring in Economics with a Specialization in Business and minoring in Astrophysics at the University of Chicago.
Learning Resources
The article highlights the persistence of Eurocentrism and the modernity/coloniality structure within fashion studies. The decolonial fashion discourse, as presented in the article, offers a framework to redefine fashion, challenge normative frameworks, recognize epistemic plurality, and decenter the production of knowledge in relation to fashion. Learners will gain a deeper understanding of the colonial foundations of the fashion industry and the need to challenge normative frameworks that perpetuate inequality and exploitation. It encourages critical thinking about the denial and erasure of diverse fashion practices due to unequal power relations and cultural appropriation.
Clothing and Difference: Embodied Identities in Colonial and Post-Colonial Africa (1996)
This book explores how clothing became a site of contestation, negotiation, and resistance during colonial rule in the African Continent and how these dynamics continue to impact cultural expressions and social hierarchies in post-colonial contexts. Learners will gain insights into the complexities of clothing as a tool for asserting dominance, erasing cultural identities, and perpetuating inequality within the colonial context. It highlights the ways in which clothing became a site of cultural and political struggle, where individuals and communities navigated and challenged colonial impositions. Moreover, the work sheds light on the enduring legacies of colonialism and the ways in which clothing continues to be intertwined with power dynamics in postcolonial Africa. It emphasizes the importance of recognizing and understanding these dynamics to develop a nuanced understanding of the impact of colonization on fashion and identity.
“Artful Decoloniality: The Politics of Fashion as Art in 20th and 21st Century Vietnam” (2023)
This article shares insights into the politics of fashion as art and its implications for decolonial practices. It sheds light on the ways in which Vietnamese designers navigate the tensions between asserting a national identity and challenging raced, gendered, and classed hierarchies of modernity, coloniality, and fashion. The article also prompts critical reflections on the complexities of identity construction, cultural representation, and power dynamics in the fashion industry.
The World in Dress: Anthropological Perspectives on Clothing, Fashion, and Culture (2004)
This article emphasizes the need for a holistic understanding of clothing that considers not only its cultural and symbolic dimensions but also its unequal economic and symbolic relationships in the global context. This article explores the role of clothing in colonization and power structures, allowing learners to critically analyze the complexities of clothing production, consumption, and the power dynamics that underlie these processes.
Hands-on Activity: Fashion and Cultural Identity
Explore the relationship between fashion and cultural identity by planning your own hands-on experience in collaboration with a local museum, retailer, or other fashion institution—anywhere you can examine traditional garments, learn about the items’ historical and cultural significance, and create your own designs inspired by your personal cultural background. This experience is intended to promote cultural appreciation, diversity, and the celebration of individual identities through fashion.